Add Audio/Video In/Out and TV to your Nav for ~$300

DISCLAIMER: Use this page at your own risk!  (enough said)

NOTE: I was dissatisfied with the PC's video quality and I no longer have this in my car.
See my Display v2 page to see the before and after comparison

2004/01/31: Added a FAQs
2004/02/29: Added XBOX to FAQs


This page shows how to splice a "Pioneer GEX-P7000TV Hide-Away TV Tuner" in to almost any video screen that uses RGBS signals.
"Pioneer GEX-P7000TV Hide-Away TV Tuner" is too hard to say, so let's just call it the GEX.

There are two ways to get TV and A/V inputs in to most existing Nav systems:

  1. You can buy a complete assembly from:
  2. You can build the complete assembly yourself for $300:
    $240 for the Pioneer GEX-P7000TV (these are becoming hard to find)
    $43 in parts from DigiKey and RadioShack (all listed below) a good VGA cable, plus shipping (as always)
    You might also want to go ahead and get the AN-G3 antennas for the GEX (cost is around $70).

This page is NOT intended to harm video-nav's or avelectronics' business; in fact, it may be doing the opposite!  If you are not a "Do-It-Yourself"'er then I definitely suggest that you buy avelectronics' or  video-nav's solution!  AVElectonics looks like the way to go.  Their solution is less expensive than Video-Nav's, has 3 A/V inputs, 2 A/V outputs, includes antennas, and has a built in reverse camera feature (camera sold separately).

The GEX solution I show below only has 2 A/V inputs, 1 A/V output, no "reverse" feature, and the antennas add an extra $70.
If you are a DIY'er then I still recommend that you build it yourself; when you are done you will realize how simple and fun it really was!

The wiring schematics of this solution are, to my knowledge, neither trademarked, nor copyrighted, nor patented; the circuit is public domain knowledge on some message boards and web sites.  The solution exists independently of video-nav; video-nav just happens to be trying to sell their nice solution for a profit.  Kudos to them for bringing a niche solution like this to the market, and good luck to them in their business.  Your time is worth money, and this project could take you several days (or weeks) to complete.  Again, it may be worth $525-$600 of your time to just buy the complete solution from someone else.

I in no way claim originality or full credit for this idea.  The information for this idea is scattered on several different web sites making it hard [for me] to grasp.  This page is a consolidation of everything I found useful.  The following sites were used for information:

The best site by far is Boom's, but he is missing a few optimizations that were suggested on the boards, could be a little more thorough/detailed, and ignores some grounding issues.  I cannot find a way to get in touch with him to ask him to update his page, so this is another justification for posting his info here.

Wonderer369 deserves a ton of credit for his help.  As far as I know he was the first person to make this mod in a Nissan/Infiniti vehicle, and just seeing his setup work was encouragement enough to help me persist through this project.  He answered every single email I sent him asking about the GEX.  Wonderer is a great guy, and he has a sweet ride too! :)



  1. Prepare your Nav system's wiring for the GEX
    Basically, we are going to splice a VGA cable in to your existing the wiring harness so that it can more easily be worked with.
    This has the benefit of minimal impact on the original wiring and using nice shielded cable.
    ETA: Approximately 2 hours
  2. Prepare your GEX's wiring for the Nav system
    Basically, we are going to convert the GEX's proprietary wire to VGA connectors (to mate with the ones installed in Step #1).
    ETA: Approximately 2 hours
  3. Building the Infrared/On Screen Display (IR/OSD) device
    This is the only slightly complicated part of this whole system, however it is actually quite simple and very fun!
    ETA: 1 week for parts, 3-12 hours to build (depending on your soldering/electronic skills)
  4. Wire it all together
    ETA: Approximately 1 hour


Wiring Pinout Summary

(looking at the front of the Nav connector)
20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2
19 17 * 13 11 9 7 5 3 1
(looking at the front of the GEX connector)
Function Nav CPU VGA F/M GEX Red G
GEX Green VGA F/M Nav Screen
RGBS Red 18 Black 1 1 Quad-Axial Gray 1 Quad-Axial Gray 1 I
18 Black
RGBS Green 21 White 2 2 Quad-Axial Green 2 Quad-Axial Green 2 21 White
RGBS Blue 15 Red 3 3 Quad-Axial Red 3 Quad-Axial Red 3 15 Red
RGBS Ground 17 Black/White 5 & Hood 4 Quad-Axial Shield 4 Quad-Axial Shield 5 & Hood 17 Black/White
RGBS Sync 20 Pink 15 5 White Coaxial 5 White Coaxial 15 20 Pink
+12V ACC 6 Light Green 11 17 White N/A N/A
+5V N/A 16 Yellow 9
DISP ON 12 Clear 10
IR Remote 8 Small Purple 12
H-Sync 9 Small Pink 13
V-Sync 10 Small Black 14
      All other wires...   All other wires...      

1) Prepare your Nav system's wiring for the GEX

Parts and Tools Quantity Cost
High Quality Shielded VGA Extension Cable (Male and Female connectors)
NOTE: We will be cutting it in half, so I recommend 10', but any length will do
10' $10
26-22GA Wire Tap In Connector (@ HomeDepot?) 1 ?
22-18GA Heat Shrink (@ RadioShack?) 2' $2
26-22GA Crimp On Butt Connectors (@ RadioShack?) 10 ?
Low-Watt Soldering Iron (20W is enough for what we are doing)    
26-16GA Wire Cutter and Stripper    
Electrical Tape    
Extension Cord    
A thin block of wood (to solder against INSIDE THE CAR)    


  1. Cut the VGA cable in half.  Yes, cut it in half!
    Again, I recommend a 10' cable, but any length will do (obviously, the shorter the better)
  2. On the female VGA cable assembly, carefully strip off about 4-6 inches of the outer insulation leaving the shielding intact
  3. Fold the shielding back, snip the foil at the base and peel it off
  4. Find the 6 wires for pins 1, 2, 3, 11, 15, and Ground/Shield (use a multi-meter continuity check)
    Pins 1, 2, and 3 should be separate shielded coaxial cable
    Ground/Shield should have a dedicated fibrous wire attached to the shielding
  5. Cut all of the other wires off (to get them out of the way), they won't be used at all.
    None of these wires will be carrying a signal, so there is no concern that they will short circuit.
  6. Carefully strip off about half off the outer insulation on wires 1, 2, and 3 leaving the shielding intact.
  7. Fold the shielding back.
  8. Carefully strip off enough of the dielectric/insulation for the wire to fit in the butt connector (about 1/4").
  9. Cut wires 11, 15 and Ground/Shield so that they match the length of wires 1, 2, and 3.
  10. If your 26-22GA butt connectors have insulation on them, take the insulation off now.
  11. Solder 5 butt connectors to the tips of wires 1, 2, 3, 15, and Ground/Shield (NOT wire 11).
    Do this quickly enough so that the wire does not get too hot and start to melt the dielectric/insulation.
    I recommend filling the butt connector with solder first, then reheat it and slide the wire in.
  12. Cut 8 3" segments of heat shrink and slide them all the way to the back of each of the signal wires (not ground/shield).
  13. Repeat steps 2 thru 12 on the male VGA cable assembly.
  14. Get access to your Nav unit's main wiring harness and pop out it's first anchor point on the chassis.
    This will make accessing the harness much easier.
  15. Carefully slit the heat shrink back about 6-8", cut it off and save it (we will be putting it back).
    Be VERY careful not to nick/cut any wires (I did this myself).
    If you do nick/cut a wire then no big deal; repair it with a butt connector and heat shrink.
  16. Now for the scary (and sadistically fun) part: Cut the 5 Nav wires mentioned in the pinout reference table (by wire color).
    The wires should be logically grouped in to 3 groups: RGB, Ground, and Sync.
    Cut them about halfway between the connector and the cut-back insulation (3-4 inches).
    DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!  This probably voids your Nav's warranty.
  17. Carefully strip off enough insulation for the wires to fit in the butt connector.
  18. Run an extension cord to your car and warm up your soldering iron.
    You are about to begin soldering INSIDE your car; be ULTRA careful not to drop the iron inside your car!
  19. Using the pinout reference table above, solder the female VGA cable assembly to the wires that lead to the Nav CPU.
    Again, pay attention that the wire does not get too hot and start to melt the diaelectic/insulation or the heat shrink.
  20. Slide each of the heat shrinks over the butt connectors.
  21. Repeat steps 19 and 20 for the male VGA cable assembly to the wires that lead to the Nav Display.
  22. On the female VGA cable assembly (the one connected to the Nav CPU),  connect wire 11 to the 12V ACC wire (#6, Light Green) with a wire tap.
    Remember, we will only need to "tap" in to this wire; we do not want to cut it!
    Alternatively, you could just connect any ACC voltage line to wire 11 (this is what I did).
  23. Now is the ideal time to test if the wiring is working OK.
    If you find a problem then you won't have to undo any of the below steps.
    Connect the female and male ends of the VGA cables.
    Start your Nav system and check that everything is working like it used to (especially the screen).
    If everything looks good then proceed with the next steps.
    If there is a problem then you are on your own! ;)
  24. Shrink the heat shrink on the butt connectors.
  25. Unfold the RGB wire shielding over the butt connectors.
  26. Unfold the main shielding over both cable assemblies.
    For our purposes we prefer that all of the ground/shielding wires to touch each other.
  27. Wrap a few turns of electrical tape over each cable assembly.
  28. Run the cable assemblies so that they run in opposing directions (minimizing strain and bend).
  29. Replace the heat shrink that you took off in Step 15 and wrap the hell out of it with electrical tape!
  30. Your Nav wiring is now both self sufficient and prepared for interfacing with a modified [see below] GEX-P7000TV!
    I would suggest labeling both VGA connectors with "RGBS, NOT VGA".
    I would not expect anything good to happen if you plug the male connector into a VGA card or the female into a monitor.

2) Prepare the GEX's wiring for your Nav system

Part ID Product Unit Price Quantity Total Price
15-Position HD Male Solder D-Sub Connector
Cat.# 276-1501  
$1.69 $1.69
15-Position HD Female Solder D-Sub Connector
Cat.# 276-1502  
$1.99 $1.99

9-Position Metal D-Sub Metal Hoods for 9-Pin and D-Sub Connectors
Cat.# 276-1508


Order Sub-Total: $9.26


  1. Cut the GEX's Green/Red RGB cable in half.  Yes, cut it in half!
  2. Carefully strip off 3"-4" of the outer insulation.
    NOTE: Cut carefully; the cables inside are very fine and are not very well protected.
  3. Using the Wiring Pinout Summary as a reference...

    Be careful to cut all of the "unused" wires such that they cannot short out with either Ground or with each other.
    Be sure to keep Pin 5, the Ground/Shielding, and the Hood all in contact.

  4. As with the Nav wiring, I would suggest labeling both VGA connectors with "RGBS, NOT VGA".
    I would not expect anything good to happen if you plug the male connector into a VGA card or the female into a monitor.

3) Building the Infrared/On Screen Display (IR/OSD) device

Your GEX is almost ready to communicate with your Nav system, but we are missing a few last things.

  1. The GEX itself has no IR eye for the remote, so we need to add one and send the signal back to the GEX.
    NOTE: There is a mysteriously useful looking "V-Sel Info Terminal" input on the GEX.
    Perhaps this could be used to eliminate the need for the IR eye?
  2. The GEX's OSD needs to know the H-Sync and V-Sync of the video signal so that it can overlay a menu.
    An Intersil/Elantec EL4583 Integrated Circuit will be used to extract these signals from the Composite Sync.
  3. The GEX needs the "DISPLAY ON" (Clear) wire jumped to Ground so that it thinks a Display is connected.
    This is accomplished by the J1 jumper in the below schematic.
    NOTE: Using a jumper/shunt to accomplish this is completely optional; you may just hardwire this with a simple trace/wire.
  4. The RGBS wires from the GEX need to be routed out to the Nav Display.

Thus the reason we need to build the following IR/OSD device.

IR/OSD Device

NOTE: Build this circuit according to the schematic.
 The pictures are of a previous version and should only be used as a general guide.

Parts List

NOTE: "Part ID" indicates the component shown in the circuit schematic


Part ID   Product Unit Price Quantity Total Price
276-149 Grid-Style PC Board-356 Holes
Cat.# 276-149  
$1.69 $1.69
  15-Position HD Male Solder D-Sub Connector
Cat.# 276-1501  
$1.69 $1.69
  15-Position HD Female Solder D-Sub Connector
Cat.# 276-1502  
$1.99 $1.99
Order Sub-Total: $5.37


Quantity Part Number Description Part ID Unit Price
 Extended Price
1 SRA21B-ND BOX A SERIES BLK (2.6X4.25X1.12) ENCLOSURE 3.65000 $3.65
2 SR2005-DB9B-ND END PANEL W/DB9 FOR A-21 BLK 2.77000 $5.54
1 S2012-36-ND CONN HEADER .100 DUAL STR 72POS GEX, NAV 1.85000 $1.85
1.03000 $1.03
1 C3AAT-1606M-ND IDC CABLE - CSC16T/R002/CSC16T   3.30000 $3.30
1 425-1175-5-ND RECEIVER REMOTE CTRL SIDE 38KHZ IR EYE 2.25000 $2.25
2 P5164-ND CAP 47UF 35V ALUM LYTIC RADIAL C1,C2 0.28000 $0.56
4 399-2127-ND CAP .1UF 50V 20% CER RADIAL C3,C4,C5,C6 0.16000 $0.64
5 681KXBK-ND RES 681K OHM 1/4W 1% METAL FILM 681K 0.10800 $0.54
5 47QBK-ND RES 47 OHM 1/4W 5% CARBON FILM 47 0.05600 $0.28
1 ZXFV4583N16CT-ND IC SEPARATOR VIDEO SYNC 16-SOIC EL4583 7.98000 $7.98
1 A726-ND SOCKET ADPTR SOIC/16PIN .300DIP 6.97000 $6.97
4 160-15F-ND ASSY SCREWLOCK 4-40 FEMALE .520"   0.55000 $2.20
NOTE: You have to complain to DigiKey in order to get the 1st two prices I mention here.
"Request a quote" through their web page saying the following: offers a much lower "1 unit" price on the following items:

Item DigiKey Price Mouser Price
SRA21B $6.33 $3.65
SR2005-DB9B $4.76 $2.77

Could you please match or beat their price?
Thank you.

They will send you an email back with a price match that should save you $6.66.

Subtotal $36.79
Handling $0.00
Shipping unknown
Sales Tax unknown

3) In addition to the above items you will also need:

Part ID Description RadioShack Part #
  1/8" Stereo Phono Cable, 12' ?
  1/8" Stereo (3 conductor) Phono Jack, Panel Mount ?
22K 22KΩ Resistor 1/4W 5% Carbon Film 271-312
82K 82KΩ Resistor 1/4W 5% Carbon Film
  = Optional Part
  • 22K and 82K resistors may be added for filtering and signal detection.
    Read the EL4583 manual for more info and decide if you want these or not.
    I did NOT add these.  For an example of how to use them go here.

  • For the IR Receiver Module:

    1. Cut one end off of the 1/8" cable

    2. Solder the 1/8" cable to the IR module
      (Wire/pin matchings do NOT matter here)

    3. Solder the Header wires to the Phono Jack
      (Here is where wire/pin matchings DO matter)

    4. Mount the IR "Eye" somewhere visible, but inconspicuous, in your car

  • Unlisted parts that I stole from my "parts" bin:

    • Mounting screws for PC Board

    • 4-wire header (for IR connecting to the module)
      Use an old CD-ROM Audio connector

    • Miscellaneous Wire and Solder
      I had this kit laying around: 276-173
      I hope you know where to find solder.

    • OPTIONAL: Jumper Shunt for OPTIONAL J1
      Use one from an old motherboard

IR/OSD Grand Total: $42.16 + Tax + Shipping

+ a few miscellaneous parts.
In all, well less than $60 in parts.

NOTE: Do NOT forget to connect a jumper to J1!

08/18/03: I have had my IR/OSD circuit in my car for over 3 weeks now, and my only problem to date is that every 20 to 30 times that I start my car the video sync doesn't always...well..."sync".  The problem is quickly noticeable and easily solved by rebooting the PC before it has a chance to get far in to the "boot" process.  I, personally, can live with this.  You may find it worth your time to experiment with the optional resistors that I mention.

4) Wire it all together

This is very easy because everything is modular; just follow the below diagram:

(blatant alteration of's diagram)

Old/Obsolete Ideas

Altinex DA1910SX and DA1914SX

6/7/2003: I finally gave up on this idea.  It was a valiant attempt and would have been the perfect lightweight solution if only the DA1910SX was a Scan-Converter.  Alas, it is not, it merely combines a few sync signals, but does nothing to make the signal NTSC compatible.  If I could get my computer to output 30Hz interlaced video that might work, but the CLE266 chip on a VIA ITX motherboard apparently I cannot (even using PowerStrip).  Another bonus to the GEX solution [above] is the addition of a TV tuner and second video source.  That, and the fact that people have proven that the GEX solution works, sold me.  Maybe one day I will stumble across an inexpensive high-quality scan converter (or an ITX motherboard that can output VGA at NTSC scan rates) and could perhaps visit this solution again.  Ah, goodbye fair Altinex devices, you were fun while you lasted.

4/26/2003: These beauties were bought on eBay last week, for a total of $82, and they should get here soon.  Once they actually show up I plan to crack them open and see their innards.  I hate having those BNC jumpers between the two units, so I may look in to combining these guys into a single case with more direct wiring.

Frequently Asked Questions

Visits Since 10/2/2004: